If you believe that intact hamlets, uncontaminated nature, good food, and kindness are essential elements for a happy holiday, you are in the right place.
I leave you with my travel itinerary to discover the Romagna Apennines known as Romagna Toscana.
Romagna Toscana
Or Florentine Romagna: this is a historical region of Italy, so-called because although culturally Romagna, has historically been governed, since the end of the fifteenth century, by Florence.
In the 1930s, the Fascist regime changed the administrative borders of many Italian provinces and decided to take some municipalities away from Florence to enlarge the province of Forlì.
In these places, still today, you’ll hear to speak dialect or with a Romagnolo accent, sometimes mixed with Tuscan; again, here you’ll eat -especially- Romagna cuisine, even in the Tuscan part, and you’ll find a particular atmosphere.
The 15 municipalities o the Tuscan Romagna area are divided among the provinces of Forlì, Arezzo, and Florence and are all perched on the Apennines. The summer means lush woods and cool weather; instead autumn foliage, and chestnuts.
I knew these places since I was a child when I come with my family for local festivals, trips, and Sunday lunches. After many years, we decided to spend our summer holidays here.
We couldn’t have made a better choice.
Travel Itinerary:
Tredozio, Modigliana, Monte Busca, il vulcanello (volcano of Romagna), Portico di Romagna, Marradi
Where to sleep
Traveling with a dog, we often prefer farmhouses or B&Bs where we find independent flats that provide independence and comfort as breakfast or a swimming pool.
Among the sites I use most often are agriturismi.it and Italian Historic Houses. On these sites, you can find both rooms and flats.
We found our corner of paradise at Agriville La Collina in Tredozio. A perfect place where you can spend an afternoon reading a book at the pool, watch the dog walk free around, drink a glass of wine lulled by the wind. And from where to set off on walks, without moving the car, or excursions to discover the area.
The property includes Villa Vespignani, which is part of the Fai circuit and can be visited. Don’t miss the small garden all’Italiana, where the colors of ancient varieties of dahlias will amaze you, the private chapel, and the 16th-century manor house.
Tredozio
A small, authentic hamlet.
Enjoy it slowly.
Stroll along the main street, don’t miss Palazzo Fantini, in the square, or follow the path along the river.
If you have the possibility, go shopping at the local butcher Giorgio’s (where you will also find ready-made dishes. My tip is to taste vitello tonnato and chicken croquettes. But it’s all good!). Or buy fruit, vegetables, and eggs from Stefano, the greengrocer. I suggest both the bakeries of Tredozio.
I had a very satisfying lunch at Locanda Guelfo, discovering the Tredoziese, or grandmother’s, sauce. A sauce that cooks for a long time with garlic but, true, you don’t feel it. It just leaves a tasty and so delicious sauce that you never want it to end.
Arriving in Tredozio from Modigliana, you will see pizzeria Harry, where the fried pizza, the classic crescentina, is so good. You can also ask it to-go. The pizza is also recommended.
Market day: Tuesday.
Modigliana
Compared to Tredozio, visiting the village requires more time – half a day.
And if you like visiting churches and museums, even longer.
Climb up to the ruins of the castle of the Guidi family, which once owned lands in all the area of Romagna Toscana.
And then follow the narrow streets of the center, letting your inspiration guide you.
Enter the 17th-century Palazzo Calubani to admire the internal staircase.
If you smell a good smell, you have probably arrived at the Gastronomia Antichi Sapori where you can also stop for a meal (if you do, book a place on the terrace in advance). Excellent cuisine and traditional Romagna dishes of a high standard (even the seasonings).
The Colombina bakery offers exquisite products.
Market day: Saturday.
Monte Busca and the volcano
If you think you will never see the highest volcano in the world, visit the smallest!
It is located in Romagna, along the road – beautiful, a journey within a journey and also recommended for cyclists – leading from Tredozio to Portico di Romagna.
Approximately 1.5 km after the Monte Busca hotel and restaurant, on the left, you will find a ruined house and a dirt track where you can leave your car. From there, continue on foot for a few minutes. Take the ritual photo, and off you go. Some people stop for an impromptu barbecue, but I recommend the one at the Monte Busca restaurant. There, among other things, you can taste the bartolaccio (a sort of piadina stuffed with mashed potatoes, Parmesan cheese, bacon, or sausage and grilled).
Portico of Romagna
This little village, built on the ruins of a fortified castle, was the capital of Romagna Toscana. Today you will find an old hotel restaurant, a bar, and a butcher’s shop.
It looks like a mountain village struck by a spell. Everything is clean, neat, and charming. The people, however, are disappearing.
Don’t miss the romantic tour of the vegetable gardens and the Ponte della Maestà, a typical Romagnolo medieval “humpback” bridge.
Marradi
The road from Tredozio to Marradi, the only one of the villages I visited that is still in the province of Florence, is also very beautiful. Yet here in the shops you can still find food with a Romagna accent, as well as Tuscan specialties.
Marradi is famous for its chestnuts, chestnut cake, and chestnut flour.
The visit is pleasant and quick. The Mercatali butcher’s shop is an institution and the Sartoni bakery is always worth a visit.
If you have time, take the opportunity to visit Palazzolo sul Senio.
Market day: Monday.
Buone vacanze, Monica
Traveling
On the Romagna Toscana website, you can find further tips.
Here you will find my travel itineraries in Italy that you can use to build your own.
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