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Sauces and Pâté

Celery ragù recipe
Celery ragù, a Romagna recipe for vegetable ragù
My husband comes into the kitchen exclaiming, "What a wonderful smell of old-fashioned ragù." And he's right, because celery ragù, or vegetable ragù, is a forgotten recipe from Romagna that is well worth rediscovering. The recipe belongs to the peasant repertoire of sughi finti (fake sauces), where the adjective indicated the absence of an ingredient you…
Homemade tomato passata
Homemade tomato passata and the season of preserves
I clutch a bottle of homemade tomato puree and travel through time. Memories flow like the hands of a clock gone mad until the mechanism uncovers the right one. I remember summers in the countryside and the giant cauldrons where bottles of tomato passata cooked. Not everyone knows that Emilia-Romagna is a northern Italian region where preparing…
Plum Ketchup
Homemade plum ketchup
This plum ketchup is lightly spiced and sweet and sour. It is a versatile sauce that works well with roasts, cheeses, salads, burgers, and chips. Transforming and preserving is something I enjoy. I guess it is the little girl who grew up in a home with a peasant grandmother skilled in making sweet and savory preserves who…
Red cabbage ragù
Red cabbage ragù and pasta seasoning recipes
I remember. I am a few years old and sitting in the kitchen chair, the one in the corner near the French window. Grandma is cooking while I play. I have many memories of that distant, happy time, and they are all beautiful. The legacy of the years spent in the kitchen with her and…
Green sauce (salsa verde) of the Bolognese tradition
Green sauce (salsa verde) of the Bolognese tradition
Food is joy, ritual, conviviality, necessary, seasonal. In Italy, it is regional, often even parochial. Not to mention that to understand the origins and evolution of many recipes, one must look beyond current Italian administrative boundaries to a distant past when the regions as we know them today did not exist (the regional authority is…
Farmyard hen ragù
Farmyard hen ragù, tagliatelle and backyard stories
So many memories emerge from the pot of hen ragù. I thank my grandmother Sara for all the beautiful days of my childhood and for having taken me since I was a child to the countryside where she grew up. Free to discover the garden, backyard, and chicken coop. Back in the day, I couldn't know it, but…
Terrina di fagioli borlotti e saba di Romagna
Borlotti terrine flavored with Saba of Romagna
Say terrine, and you think about a rustic but elegant table, a timeless country house, and a crackling fireplace. But, you know, you don't necessarily need to live in the countryside. If you love good food, you will find new inspiration in this preparation. There was a time when I often made terrines. They were…
Homemade quick tomato sauce
Artusi’s salsa di pomodoro (tomato sauce)
I tried Pellegrino Artusi's tomato sauce and found it to be such a concentration of flavors that it looked like a bottle of passata from the previous year.   Books to read, recipes to try I have an incredible backlog of recipes to try, some for the first time. And the same goes for the books I buy…
Prosciutto crudo (ham) ragù: a traditional recipe of Bologna
Prosciutto crudo (ham) ragù: a traditional recipe of Bologna
Prosciutto crudo (ham) ragù  a la Bolognese , also popular in Romagna, is a homemade recipe that has been part of my culinary baggage for as long as I can remember. It is not an express sauce or a sauce you can cook in about twenty minutes. It is an authentically traditional ragù from the…

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