I have written 6 itineraries to discover Langhe and Roero, Piedmont, and excellent food, wine, art, and nature.
Are you planning to visit that part of Piedmont? If so, my itineraries may be helpful.
I travel by discovering and savoring slowly, don’t you?
The Langhe is the territory between Cuneo and Asti. They are divided between the municipalities of the Bassa Langa, known for wines and truffles, and those of the Alta Langa, more famous for hazelnut and cheese production.
The Langhe borders Roero and Monferrato, and from this territorial contiguity, the Langhe-Roero tourism system was born. Sometimes also called Langhe-Roero-Monferrato. During this vacation, I visited the municipalities of Basse Langhe and Roero, which are part of the Strada Romantica del Roero.
How can this blog post be helpful to you?
I have shared six itineraries and tips that locals have shared with us.
You can choose from the routes I suggest for a day trip, a weekend getaway, or a vacation.
Langhe and Roero are as beautiful as a picture full of life, with vineyards looking like flowers on the hillsides overlooked by small villages, historic mansions, and medieval castles.
The Langhe is a picture with the colors of sky, wine, bricks, and egg tajarin (the name of the typical and local tagliatelle). Here, the people’s love for their land takes shape in many ways.
I loved everything about this trip: the territory, people, and flavors.
I tasted exceptional dishes. Piedmontese cuisine is one of the best in Italy. As a lover of the merenda ritual, I enjoyed the local one, the merenda sinoira.
And the wines. Some of the finest and most expensive wines in Italy and the world are born here.
The best season to go is always!
Autumn, with the grape harvest and truffle picking, is strongly recommended.
I suggest you don’t rule out other times of the year, either, because the Langhe always knows how to surprise the traveler’s eyes and heart.
Buon viaggio, Monica
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1) Monforte d’Alba and the small Perno
We were based in Monforte d’Alba, one of the 11 municipalities in the Barolo production area.
It is among the UNESCO World Heritage wine landscapes and one of Italy’s Most Beautiful Villages.
The historic part of the town, dating back to the 11th century, stands on a hill that allows you to enjoy a beautiful view. Believe me when I say that walking through the narrow streets that rise and fall, admiring the colors of the sky and houses, and breathing in the life of this place is an experience. It enchants by day, at sunset, and at night.
We were based in the locality of Perno, at the Il Bianconiglio farm.
The Pira family, owners of the agriturismo, are among the historical producers of Barolo. The owner is a person who deeply loves his land and the vineyard. Thanks to him, I discovered Barolo Chinato (his secret recipe has over 30 spices). The Barolo Chinato is an aromatic and spicy wine that originated as a medicine in the Middle Ages.
On the farm, you can also visit a typical Infernot.
Food Experience
Rocca Coffee Enoteca: breakfast, lunch, aperitif. You do, but stop by.
Moda Restaurant, where the locals go.
Albergo Giardino da Felicin, historic home.
La Gastronomia is a piece of the heart practically. You can consume it on-site or take it away.
Pira & Figli Winery, Perno (Monforte), passion and excellent wines.
Tips
Near Monforte is the castle of Castiglione Falletto, which is worth a visit.
Monforte d’Alba is worth visiting, and you should stop for lunch.
You can devote a day to it or combine this excursion with the next one I point out.
Grinzane Cavour and La Morra
A visit to the small village of Grinzane coincides with a visit to the castle.
The ancient building was purchased by Italian statesman Camillo Benso di Cavour in the 19th century. It is home to Piedmont’s first Regional Enoteca and the hall where the world auction dedicated to the Alba truffle takes place every year.
The castle has a cafeteria, a restaurant, and a shop with typical local products and an excellent selection of wines.
The distance from Grinzane is ridiculous, and La Morra is well worth a visit (some guides also point out Verduno. A tiny village with a castle that is now a hotel and restaurant. Let’s say it’s a walk you can take if you have plenty of time).
It is a small village with a breathtaking viewpoint from which you can admire the hills of Langhe and Roero. As you walk around, you will not be able to remain indifferent to the beauty of the main street and its churches and not look out the door of the communal wine cellar.
Serralunga d’Alba and Barolo
Once you go up to the castle, you will be amazed at the spectacle that opens before your eyes. It is a window from which to admire the sky you seem to touch with a finger, the red roofs of the houses below, and the green landscape surrounding the entire village perched on top of a hill.
The hamlet itself does not offer much, apart from a nice walk to the castle. But the castle must be seen! Once there, I think the long and thorough guided tour is well worth the few euros needed. Check the opening days and tour times, and remember that just the guided tour will take you 45 minutes to an hour or so.
Although there are good restaurants and stores in the village where you can find typical products and snacks, continue on to Barolo to visit this village that looks like an alpine village.
Barolo’s castle is home to the Wine Museum (WIMU) and the Enoteca Regionale del Barolo, which preserves the producers’ historic labels.
Where to take a break
I recommend lunch at Il bosco delle galline volanti, in the center of Barolo.
It’s a farmhouse that has opened where you can buy their products and taste truly zero-mile cuisine. Here, I had one of the best burgers of my life and tasted dishes that would delight vegetarians.
Alba
Alba’s weekly market is among the most popular in the area, and stalls can be found in the streets of the city center. It is certainly quaint and worthwhile even if you lose some of the beauty of the buildings on the corso and some of the details of the old stores. Your choice; if you love markets and don’t fear confusion, the day to mark is Saturday. However, it is also an opportunity to buy at the local farmers’ market (here, I bought hazelnut gentile flour and hazelnuts from the Langhe).
We also returned on a day without a market to see more of the center and have a coffee at a historic café, the Pettiti café. As you stroll around Alba, look up to admire its towers and the medieval friezes of Casa Fontana, which you find along the main street, the one that then intersects the square with the cathedral. Also beautiful are the details of some old store signs that sometimes no longer exist except for that one reference.
Where to take a break
Fresh Pasta and Gastronomy at Primo’s. It is on Corso Langhe, within walking distance of downtown. It has convenient parking. This is a temple of fresh Piedmontese pasta and traditional ready meals with a capital T.
Oscar’s Imperfect Gastronomy is a specialty food store that offers fresh pasta and excellent dishes. You can also eat there. There is super convenient parking. It is definitely worth trying.
My tip
The 10th-century Benedictine Abbey of San Frontiniano is very far from Alba. On a nice day, drive all the way there.
Romantic Road of the Langhe and Roero
I didn’t know a Romantic Road of the Langhe and Roero existed. Did you?
The official route starts in Vezza d’Alba and continues through the towns of Magliano Alfieri, Neive, Treiso, Trezzo Tinella, Benevello, Sinio, Cissone, Murazzano, Mombarcaro and Camerana. If you want to do it all without getting anxious, although the distances are small, I recommend doing it in two days. You can choose a few stops, as we did, but add Barbaresco, which deserves it, and it is a few kilometers from Vezza and Neive, so you can visit comfortably.
My Romantic Route
This mostly scenic hike starts in Vezza d’Alba, a millennia-old, though not unforgettable, village surrounded by gorges and hills. Here you are in the Roero and Vezza, the land of truffles and home to the Roero nature museum. I say this slowly, but if you are short on time, you can start at the next stop, which, on the other hand, I recommend you do not miss because it is one of the most beautiful towns in the Roero. Magliano Alfieri was a village with a military defense function in the Middle Ages because of its dominant position. Take a walk and breathe in the peace of a postcard-perfect place. The 16th-century castle of the Alfieri family of Magliano can be visited, and the restaurant of local Neive-born chef Stefano Paganini can be found.
Barbaresco
If you want to stop by Barbaresco for the time of a walk, a few photos, and a snack, then you can include it as a stop on the Romantic Road. If you book a tasting and plan to stop for lunch, take it easy and set aside time. Here, in a handful of acres and a little more, “Barbaresco” controlled and guaranteed designation of origin wines are produced. The cellars, which you can also admire while walking around, mix an ancient and contemporary style. The village is small and lively. I loved it.
Neive
It is one of Italy’s most charming villages, among those on the Romantic Road, surrounded by rows of vines. The heart of the village retains its original medieval layout with characteristic red-roofed houses lining the alleys, one close to the other.
Castello della Manta and Saluzzo
With this excursion, which will take you a day, we left the Langhe and Roero. Although both destinations are in the province of Cuneo, they are in the territory of the Monviso transboundary biosphere reserve that divides Italy and France.
And suppose Saluzzo, an episcopal city since the 14th century and the seat and capital for centuries of the marquisate whose name it still bears, is one of Piedmont’s best-preserved villages. In that case, the Castello della Manta, restored and opened by the FAI, is a medieval manor house that became a stately home from the 15th century onward. It is a jewel you must not miss. So is the private little church. Remember to look at opening days and times, and my advice is to visit it before going to Saluzzo (about 4km away).
Surrounded by green hills and dominated by the peak of Monviso, Saluzzo preserves the characteristics of the old 14th-century village built on a hill. The center boasts aristocratic palaces and squares.
The ascent to the castle, where the old Saluzzo is located, is a real surprise.
You will ascend along narrow streets that take a real leap back in time. And suppose the climb is part of Saluzzo’s beauty once you get to the castle (once a prison and now reopened to the public). In that case, you’ll feel like someone lucky enough to step between the pages of a history book.
To discover Saluzzo, I recommend walking a long way through its narrow streets and climbs. And don’t miss a few things. In the lower part, visit the cathedral (check the hours; it closes during the time slot that coincides with lunch); in the upper part, visit the Church of San Giovanni, a Gothic-style jewel whose peculiarity is that at the entrance you will have to go down and not up a staircase (the floor is, therefore, lower than street level), and its cloister.
Where to take a break
Martini Gastronomy. Via Martiri della Liberazione, 24. It is located behind the Duomo. It is A gastronomy that a gluttonous traveler cannot miss. Traditional Piedmontese dishes that make you want to sing La Monferrina (regional folk song).
